Grapeful wines aren’t your run-of-the-mill vino. These are wines made with non-traditional grapes, grown under unusual circumstances and fermented in ways that defy categorization.

At Ten Bears Winery in Laporte, Wisconsin (the state’s northernmost vineyard), vintner Bill Conkling grows a hybrid from Minnesota called Marquette that yields complex reds bottled as 100 percent single-varietal wines or used in blends. He also grows a short-growing French variety called La Crescent and uses it in a white blend. Both varieties grow well in his climate but he can’t grow enough of them to fill demand, so he buys from California and Oregon.

Cheers to Excellence: Exploring Grapeful Wines’ Finest Selections

When Rick Buffington and his wife, Jodie, started Cougar Vineyard and Winery in Temecula, California, they decided to focus on rare grapes. They planted 30 different vines from Italy, including counties, which once graced the Chateauneuf-du-Pape blends of France’s Rhone Valley but was abandoned due to its late-ripening habit and susceptibility to gray rot. Today it’s enjoying a revival in hotter climates and fits in with the current vogue for low-tannin, high-acidity reds.

And then there’s saturne, which has the same acidity as Champagne but is more fruity and lower in alcohol. It’s a perfect match for the tequila-laced cocktails that are so popular in trendy bars and restaurants. Then there are orange wines, which are made with white grapes that see extra skin contact and deliver robust flavors. They’re best served for toasts and life’s finer moments.